A Guide to the Prettiest Villages in Alsace Part 2-Ribeauvillé

Today we continue our exploration of the prettiest villages in Alsace. This eastern region of France is so rife with beauty that it is hard to go wrong anywhere. There are, however, names that come up again and again. Today we are checking out Ribeauvillé.

The Prettiest Villages in Alsace- Ribeauvillé’s Atmosphere

“Can you imagine that this is just their life,” I said incredulously. “Walking past 15^th century buildings to buy fresh bread every morning and carrying it home across ancient cobblestone paths is normal.” As I have uttered similar sentiments many times before on our travels, my husband just nodded in response.

And then, as if on cue, an adorable girl of about 10 years old, crossed our path. A shopping bag slung over her right shoulder, she expertly balanced two long baguettes wrapped in brown paper in her left hand. She strode confidently and purposefully. Clearly, her parents had assigned her this task many times before. And for reasons I can’t quite put into words, my husband and I were utterly charmed by her.

A Brief History of Ribeauvillé

In addition to being one of the prettiest villages in Alsace, this town is also one of the oldest. It is located along the Wine Route (between vineyards and mountains) and is just a 22-minute drive from Colmar. (A quick reminder for first-time visitors: people drive on the right in France, just like we do in America).

Today the village has around 5,000 full-time residents. But, like many of the other towns in this region, tourism is big business. These tiny places can get really clogged with visitors in the middle of the day, so either try to walk around in early morning or after 5:00pm, and definitely avoid the height of tourist season in the summer.

The Middle Ages spanned from 500-1500. In the Middle Ages, Ribeauvillé was the town seat of the Lords of Ribeaupierre. Perched on the hills overhead, you can see the ruins of the Three Castles of the Lords of Ribeaupierre. The town actually began (under another name) in the 700’s. Hard to imagine, right?

Visitors can hike to see the ruins, if they are so inclined.

The Storks of Alsace

We’ve all heard the story of how big, white storks bring babies to expectant parents. It is sometimes said that ancient cultures observed the habits of the birds and that was how they ended up in our myths. For example, storks often build their nests, not in remote areas, but near human settlements. They also remain monogamous and faithful to one partner for their entire life. Lastly, the birds often migrate from Germany and other parts of Northern Europe to Africa and warmer climates and then, 9 months later, return to the North and to their original nest.

Why does all this matter? Well, I told you, in the pretty villages of Alsace, fairytales come true. The storks have become the symbol of the region because the real storks (Cigogne in French) are from here and their nests are everywhere.

For the first time, I understood why wildlife photographers are often willing to sit in the same spot for hours waiting for the perfect shot. It was such a thrill to see these huge birds take flight from their nests or land and dote on their infants. We squealed with delight. Their wingspans are so much bigger than I realized that it’s hard not to “ooh” and “aah” as they whoosh across the sky.

I can’t blame the storks for making their homes here. The prettiest villages in Alsace also attract the coolest wildlife.

Lastly, there is a nature park/bird sanctuary where visitors can learn more about these birds. In our case, we didn’t need to visit the sanctuary because strolling down the street or sitting on a bench in the town square, they there were. Just overhead we watched them frequent their nests.

Where Storefronts Put on a Show

Alsace is also, apparently, a place where shopkeepers ensure that their storefronts put on a show all the time. Decorating their windows and doors makes these villages look like a theatrical set. It’s now my favorite tradition. I mentioned doing something around our front door someday (when we are back in the States with a house). Mr. HomeFree wasn’t really on board with that one. Maybe it’s a fantasy best left in fantasyland.

One More Small Historical Note

I noticed this sign while walking around.

The sign means: street of Jews. I did a little research and learned that this town had a Jewish presence dating back to the 13^th Century and that they had a full-fledged synagogue by 1311.

Though, of course, there was a Jewish street or quarter where they were required to live and work. The Jewish population of Ribeauvillé was expelled and then allowed to return to the community multiple times over the centuries, which is a common refrain in Jewish history.

Thank you to JGuide Europe for the following information:

“The Riebeauvillois community grew throughout the 18th century, from 13 families in 1697 to 67 families in 1784, representing just over 300 inhabitants. They were finally granted the right to buy property. In 1700, the Jews of Ribeauvillé and Bergheim joined forces to hire Rabbi Samuel Lévy, son of Cerf Lévy from Metz. He lived in Ribeauvillé and then in Colmar. 

A new synagogue was built between 1830 and 1840 on the site of the old one. Ribeauvillé remained a rabbinical seat until the First World War.” 

In Ribeauvillé, like in all of these villages, there are wineries offering wine tastings and tours every 20 steps. Wander, drink, eat, relax and repeat.

Stay tuned for future articles about the other villages I visited.