For Americans, there are certain activities that just sound English to us. We think if visiting pubs and cheering on the local football club as quintessentially English activities. In my experience, I have found all these activities to be not stereotypes at all, but rather, the truth. The English do enjoy afternoon tea, too. They also enjoy tea any time you offer it to them. But, the point is, as cheesy as it may sound, I wanted to try a full afternoon tea with all the trimmings. I also wanted to try punting, which is an iconic activity in Cambridge. I am happy to report that neither activity disappointed.
Enjoy Afternoon Tea: The Real Deal
I have two dear friends who used to have tea with me. We’ve traveled to tea houses around North Florida together for many years and tried scones, clotted cream, lemon curd and all the trimmings. For us, it was always a girly and civilized way to catch up after not having seen each other in months. Tea was the activity that brought us back together and the hours and hours of talks were the fuel that propelled our friendship forward through the decades. So, how could I not try the real thing?
When we first arrived, we were told to have tea at The Ivey. Later, we found out that, while utterly beautiful inside, The Ivy is really famous and when you eat there, you pay for the name. So, after researching on my own and asking locals, I settled on Fitzbillies. In Cambridge, they have two locations, but only one serves a full afternoon tea. They are famous for their sticky buns with raisins. For the record, I didn’t try one but someone in my group did and their review was, “meh.”
For my readers who are amateurs at having tea, I should explain that the tradition supposedly began centuries ago. At the time, people used to eat breakfast and a late (by American standards) dinner with nothing in between. There was a noblewoman who used to complain about getting faint in the afternoons. In reality, this was probably as much because of those damn corsets than lack of food. At any rate, her servants began preparing an afternoon snack for her. It caught on with other nobility and grew from there.
Afternoon tea is typically comprised of a selection of sandwiches (chicken salad, egg salad, ham, or smoked salmon) with the crusts cut off, a scone with clotted cream and lemon curd or jam, and a selection of mini-desserts. All of these goodies are displayed on a multi-tiered tray. Obviously, your drink is your tea flavor or choice.
Personally, I didn’t love the smoked salmon sandwich, but others in my group loved it. The sweets were all perfect and I couldn’t find fault with a single one of them. The scone was served with clotted cream and jam. The tradition is to use both so you get both flavors in the same bite, though there is a serious debate among Brits as to which one you should slather on first. For the record, a scone with clotted cream and jam sounds simple, but it is one of the most amazing things you will ever eat for all of its simplicity. Having said that, Fitzbillies serves each guest more clotted cream than any human being could ever use in one sitting.
There have been a few times in my life where I indulged in an activity that felt truly civilized. Staying at the Battle House Hotel in Mobile, Alabama was one such time. The atmosphere there feels truly fit for a queen. Even though the atmosphere at Fitzbillies is casual, I couldn’t help but feel civilized and dignified while indulging in this classy, centuries-old tradition. It didn’t feel stuffy or snooty. It felt like the perfect way to catch up with friends and family. These Brits are crafty. They knew exactly what they were doing when the embraced this tradition.
Punting in Cambridge
The River Cam winds like a ribbon through the center of Cambridge. It was, as you can imagine, a major reason the town was founded. Though not nearly as old as many other traditions, punting began in the 19th century. It was originally a way to fish and transport cargo along the narrow rivers. The boats a skinny with a square-cut bow. A traditional punt is 24 feet long and only 3 feet wide. But, today, they are made wider to fit more tourists. Not very romantic or historically accurate, but it is practical.
A group of five of us piled into a punt on a drizzly morning. I had, of course, hoped for gorgeous weather, but was denied. The English have learned that since it rains a lot, you have to just live your life and ignore the rain. So we did.
Much like a gondola, a guide propels the punt using a long pole that he digs into the bottom of the river and then pushes off. The guides are typically young males because of the tremendous amount of upper body strength required. They look like they would be Cambridge students. They are not. In fact, Cambridge students are not permitted to work. They are expected to focus on their studies.
Now that punting has become a tourist activity, the guides tell you fantastic stories all about the colleges and the town’s history during your 45-minute journey. Being so low in the water makes for a fascinating view of all the historic buildings.
My tips for visitors: There were 40 punts in the water in March when I went. During the height of tourist season (summer) there can be as many as 400. Remember to book your trip online in advance. I did that even during the low season. Lastly, if you go during cooler weather, consider warming up afterwards with tea!
May 14, 2023 at 4:52 pm
I love the story about the tea and having been to Fitzbillie’s with you, I relived our wonderful experience there. Unfortunately, we were unable to get on the river with the Punters, due to the high winds and dangerous situation on the river that day. It would have been a wonderful trip so thank you for taking me there vicariously. You write such wonderful stories it’s easy to imagine being there. Thank you.
May 15, 2023 at 2:51 am
I am SO sorry that you didn’t get to experience the punting! GRRRR! I am glad that you punted vicariously by reading my story. Tea is a cool experience. I think people believe it just means a cup of tea, but it’s more than that. It’s actually pretty filling food and so delicious! Thanks for sharing it all with me.
May 14, 2023 at 9:45 pm
I want to go to there! This is timely as I had suggested hosting high tea for my mother-in-law for today’s Mothers Day observance but was voted down by my husband in favor of lunch (she’s his mom, so his vote counts more). So this was a nice way to get my English tea anyway! Thank you!
May 15, 2023 at 2:53 am
I’m not sure if there are still tea houses in your area, but it’s really fun. It’s more enjoyable and delicious than I think people expect it to be. Maybe you can request an afternoon tea for your birthday. Happy Birthday! (No, I didn’t forget). 🙂