Hawaii is a volcanic island. Volcanoes create one of the most unusual landscapes on the planet. While the resorts on the west side of the big island (Hawaii) are beautiful, visitors should also make time to see some of the unique results that volcanic eruptions bring. Today, we are exploring the landscape of a volcanic island together.
The First Feature of a Volcanic Island: Kaumana Caves
Just a 20-minute drive from the heart of Hilo are the Kaumana Caves. These two caverns are part of a long lava tube. The tube was created in 1881 from the lava flow of the eruption of nearby Mauna Loa. The mountain and the visitor entrance to the caves are roughly 13 miles apart, which gives you an idea of how much lava there is, and how far it can flow.
The lava tube is a little over 2 miles long. Some of the tube traverses private property, but with permission from the landowners and a professional headlamp, you can explore the entire tube. However, this hike is really intended for advanced spelunkers. In my case, I was happy to snoop around the two main caverns before moving on. I made sure to bring a flashlight (and not just the one on my cell phone). You would be surprised at how little a cell phone flashlight helps in this environment. A real flashlight works much better.
The caves are free to visit. There is free parking across the street from the entrance, and you’ll want to hold the railings of the very steep staircase that leads to the entrance. On the day we visited, we saw quite a lot of families there investigating the caves. A volcanic island has many otherworldly features that you won’t see elsewhere. For me, what hot lava does to a landscape is the most fascinating thing of all.
The Boiling Pots
The Wailuku River is 18 miles long and a portion of it flows just 15 minutes outside of Hilo. The boiling pots are a unique landscape featured formed many years ago by lava. First, lava formed rock craters and when the rushing river water swirls through those craters, it all resembles pots of boiling water. What says “volcanic island” more than craters, after all? While this is cool and everything, the best part is the ancient legend about this landscape. I am a sucker for a truly poetic legend. Check out one of my other favorite legends from my time in England.
Gather around for story time.
The Legend of Hina, Maui, and Kuna
Hina was the mother of Maui (if your only frame of reference is cartoons, then you will know this is the male main character in Moana voiced by Dwayne Johnson). Hina spurned the romantic attentions of Kuna, a giant lizard. Unfortunately, Kuna wanted revenge, so he waited for the powerful Maui to leave on a fishing trip. This left his mother alone in their cave by the Wailuku River. Kuna used his tail to push boulders down a mountain in front of the entrance to Hina’s cave. The river water started to rise and Hina was trapped.
Hina used her beautiful singing voice to alert Maui. He returned to save his mother. Kuna scampered away and hid in the cracks among the rocks. Maui did not want the lizard to escape, so he turned toward the volcano Mauna Kea and asked the volcano goddess Pele for help.
Maui offered Pele his canoe and all the fish he had caught. She was pleased with this offering. Maui asked Pele to send her lava into the river to draw out the unkind Kuna. Mauna Kea erupted, sending lava into all the rivers below, including into the Wailuku River. The water boiled and Kuna was driven out from between the river rocks.
Maui chased Kuna and with one blow from his club, he felled the lizard. Maui picked up the body and threw it down the waterfall. As lava continued to flow, it covered the lizard’s body. Today, he is a great rock at the base of the falls. Consequently, he gets pounded by the river’s waters, just as he tried to harm Hina with water.
Rainbow Falls
Some versions of the myth say that Kuna lies at the bottom of Rainbow Falls. On the other hand, I am no expert, but to me, the rock that looks like Kuna appears to be at the bottom of the falls at the boiling pots, whereas Rainbow Falls has a huge open pool at the bottom.
Lastly, just 5 minutes farther down river from the boiling pots, this waterfall gets its name from the frequency of the rainbows that you can see here. For the best chance to see one, they say to visit early in the morning. I haven’t tried this yet, but on this volcanic island, the trade winds breezes are most common in the morning, and it can be glorious.
Again, free parking is available right near both viewing platforms. The main platform looks across the pool at the falls and the upper platform allows you to look down on the falls. That’s an unusual perspective and worth the climb up the (rather uneven) stone steps. Rainbow Falls is the view that most people probably think of when they think of the windward side of Hawaii. It is nothing, if not dramatic!
A volcanic island owes its unusual landscape to Mother Nature’s temperamental side. Eruptions, lava flows, crashing water. There is a fierceness there. Locals know to always respect Mother Nature because she can be unforgiving. But, for the casual visitor, exploring the landscape of any volcanic island can yield big rewards.
August 14, 2025 at 11:58 pm
Those caves are cool. I would consider exploring them beyond the entrance with someone that knows what they are doing. Rainbow Falls and The Boiling Pots are both beautiful and peaceful. There is even a green space before The Boiling Pots that would make a lovely picnic spot.
August 22, 2025 at 4:44 pm
I agree. Seeing those caves with someone with the right equipment and spelunking experience would be cool. . . maybe topped off with a picnic near the Wailuku River Boiling Pots!