Alabama’s Weird & Wonderful “Deli” Concept

“What are you going to order?”

“You know me, I just want to make sure there are fries.”

“Well, you can get fries with the cheesesteak, the gyro, the fried rice and the quesadilla.”

“Maybe I’ll get a combo of fried rice, wings and fries.”

At this point, you’re probably thinking, “What kind of fever dream is this? Is someone delirious?”

As you plan your 2024 Spring Break adventure, consider visiting some of the places in my previous study of Alabama. Seeing the museums, historic sites and hiking Alabama’s parks can make a person hungry. So, today, we take a trip down memory lane & revisit my article on Alabama’s version of what a “deli” is.

American Deli

No, I am not delirious, and neither was my husband as we stood at the counter debating our orders. This is Alabama and in Alabama, this is a perfectly plausible conversation to have at the counter of an American Deli. For the rest of America, the word “deli” conjures images of corned beef and pastrami with potato salad on the side. If you are in New York, you’ll find a knish or two.

The Origin Story

So, what the heck is going on with American Deli’s menu of multiple personalities? As the story goes, the first location was in the South Dekalb mall in Atlanta in 1989. Strains of “Beat It” streamed through the tinny speaker system. Hungry shoppers with “Flock of Seagulls” hairdos streamed into the food court in search of quick, delicious food. A mall food court was a utopian place where one could find every food concept at once. American Deli decided to cover their bases by offering a little bit of everything. With a name like “American Deli” the founders could have gone with an expected menu like burgers and fries, and to an extent, they did. However, they believed that in addition to offering the entire mall food court on one menu, a key to defining an “American” menu was to represent many great cultures. After all, immigrants founded this nation and contribute to its success. Think of it as an homage to our great salad bowl.

Though the American Deli chain began in Georgia, the restaurant was so successful it spread like wildfire. Today, there are over 60 locations in Georgia and the concept moved across the border into Alabama, which has nearly 20 locations. South Carolina, Texas, and Tennessee are beginning to see a location or two pop up as well. It is a rare thing to find a restaurant that serves reubens, salads, fried fish, gyros, cheesesteaks, and fried rice all on the same menu.

Menu Details

While driving from one city to another in Alabama, we broke our rule of eating at large chains because, 1) we were starving and, 2) we had never heard of this chain. We didn’t know it was a large chain. Since it would still be an experience that was new, we gave it a go without knowing any history. Make no mistake about it, American Deli is much better than most quick-service restaurants. I am also choosing the term “quick service” carefully. While it looks like a fast-food restaurant because you order at a counter and take your food to a table, the quality, portions, prices, and service are head and shoulders above “fast food.”

We were so shocked at how much we enjoyed our first experiment that we wanted to see if it was just a lucky day. Could we replicate the experience? We have now tried 3 American Delis in three separate cities. The answer is, “yes.” Every counter employee we’ve met is friendly and educated about the menu. If you ask for suggestions, they will tell you their genuine favorites. One of them even said, “I also have a secret menu that’s not posted.” When I asked her to tell me the secret, she named three or four items that were not on the regular menu (including the quesadilla).

In total on our three visits, we have tried a chicken tenders/French fry basket, a gyro, the fried rice, a cheesesteak, and a massive salad.

The fried rice was a bit bland for me, but otherwise every item elicited, “ooohhs” and astonished “woahs” from us.

Here are the top three things you need to know about American Deli:

1. The portions are large. Be prepared to eat half of what you order.
2. You can get wings as a side dish.
3. I am not kidding. You can get wings as a side dish. A cheesesteak and wing combo plate will only set you back $11.49. Now refer to #1 above.

For dinner one night, I ordered a chef salad. It cost me a whopping $7.99, and I had to eat half of it the next day.

92Go – Dothan, AL

Alabamians love American Deli’s kitchen sink menu so much that copycats sprang up. In Dothan, a hotel employee at our Courtyard by Marriott suggested we try 92Go on Montgomery Highway. She said it had just opened down the street in January 2022 and it “would make us think of an American Deli.” We popped in and discovered that it was a locally owned version. Housed in a former Burger King (the BK spatula door handles are still there), this place is mom & pop all the way. By that I mean, there is no website. You just need to be bold, walk in the door, and ask the staff to assist you in deciphering the menu combinations. Here, they have chosen to combine “traditional” items like wings with Korean specialties such as Korean BBQ rib tips, bulgogi, cupbap, and gochujang. It’s wacky and it’s pretty darn yummy.

A Tutorial

I have a lot to learn about Korean cuisine, but here is my attempt at a brief tutorial.

Bulgogi: Translates to “fire meat.” It is thin strips of marinated beef or pork that is grilled.

Cupbap: “Bap” mean “rice.” Food trucks in Korea often serve cups of rice with various toppings as a quick, portable meal.

Gochujang: A fundamental of Korean cooking. This sweet and spicy red sauce is made from a paste. The base paste is comprised of red pepper flakes, sticky rice, fermented soybeans and salt.

Note: I have seen the rice bowls spelled both as “cupbap” and “cupbop.” In all honesty, I have no idea if there is a difference or if one is correct and the other incorrect. Perhaps they are interchangeable because the main signage for 92Go uses “cupbap” but the menu lists “cupbop.” While I have tried foods from many cultures, my education on Korean cuisine is way behind schedule.

92Go is another quick service concept. Order at the counter and take your food to your table. Diners can choose from combination platters of fried fish, shrimp, or chicken tenders. Side dishes include such items as fries or fried rice. If a diner is feeling more adventurous, they can choose from the Korean side of the menu. This includes items like cupbap with a side of wings or a K-Box (Chicken Gochujang, Shrimp Gochujang, and Bulgogi). This last item resembles a Japanese Bento box with little compartments for each item.

What We Tried

The understanding counter staff gave us some suggestions and helped us navigate which items could be added to an order as a side dish, since it wasn’t always the items you would expect (like fries). Taking a page out of American Deli’s playbook, you can add wings as a side.

My husband ordered 10 wings (two flavors: garlic parmesan and sweet chili) with a side of house fried rice (beef, chicken, and shrimp) for $15.99. I chose the honey BBQ rib tips with veggie fried rice for $9.99. Though the portions weren’t as large as those at American Deli, they were more than sufficient. Neither of us finished our meals. I am sensitive to salt in my food and, therefore, I feel some Asian restaurants use too much soy sauce in their dishes. Unfortunately, I chose not to get any packets of soy sauce with my to-go order. That was a mistake. The fried rice was under-seasoned. The intention is to allow diners to season it to their own taste, but I didn’t realize that, and I ended up with bland rice. Having said that, there is a simple remedy. 92Go can post a sign in the restaurant letting diners know to season their own rice. Lastly, the rib tips were fantastic; tender and loaded with flavorful sauce. They were a clear winner.

When I think of cuisine in Alabama, I think of fried chicken or BBQ. Apparently, Alabamians are loyal to another type of cuisine: a cultural patchwork quilt of menu items that they call “deli.” For diners who are not looking to commit to one type of cuisine, this is your jam. Maybe you have never tried Korean food and are afraid to commit to an entire entrée, this is your place. While the most famous restaurant chain in this arena may have started in Georgia, it seems Alabama has embraced the mission. Somehow, they have found a way to honor the dozens of cultures in America and Southern fried everything at the same time. American ingenuity, you gotta love it!