Where to Find Soul Food in Huntsville: Eat It All

While making small talk with someone new in Huntsville, Alabama, I asked about restaurant recommendations because I always ask about restaurant recommendations.  My lovely new friend named a few places that were chain restaurants that we don’t have in my hometown.  Meh.  I still wasn’t excited.  Seeing my bored reaction, she said, offhandedly, “Well, you could always go to my Dad’s place.”

(Cue the scratching record sound effect). 

Whaaat?!  “Your Dad is chef?” 

What I discovered was that her Dad had another career his entire life but had always wanted to open up a little café.  A few months ago, he finally did.    This article is a tribute to the Mom & Pop establishments that make America great. This includes soul food kitchens like Eat It All in Huntsville, Alabama. If you’re staying at the Marriott at the Space & Rocket Center, your drive will be less than 10 minutes. I can say from experience that your takeout will hold up just fine during the 10-minute drive back to the hotel.  You will not lose flavor or quality.

On Jordan Lane (one of Huntsville’s busiest business streets) in a tiny strip plaza sits the source of so much Southern happiness.  Chef Henderson has an apprentice or two, but some things he just doesn’t trust to others.  For example, true Southerners know you need to wash greens really, really, really well.  If you don’t, you’ll get a mouthful of sand even after they are cooked.  Chef Henderson is the driving force behind the meatloaf, the mac and cheese, the potato salad and all the delicious fried naughtiness on the menu.

For $12.00 I was rewarded with mountains of meatloaf, mac and cheese and Southern potato salad.  Even on my best day, I could not have imagined finishing it all in one sitting.  No way!  My husband tried Mr. Henderson’s unique menu invention called “The Bases Loaded.”  This consisted of chicken wings, fried shrimp and fried fish with a side dish for $18.00.  Obviously, the answer is, “no.”  He didn’t finish his meal either. We certainly didn’t need more food, but we weren’t leaving without adding a slice of chocolate layer cake and a slice of 7-Up poundcake to our to-go order.  The desserts were obviously homemade, so they just followed us home like a new puppy follows home an eight-year-old.

Twenty-three years ago, I married into a family that knows soul food, and cooks it every, single weekend, as well as for every holiday, birthday, and special event.  After two decades, I am starting to learn what imposters taste like and what a good version of something tastes like.  The food at Eat It All was real.  It was made with heart by a man who always wanted a restaurant.   

The mac and cheese was creamy and (duh!) cheesy.  The potato salad was tangy the way Southerners expect.  (Side note: I am a Yankee and still prefer Northern potato salad, but this Southern version was truly excellent).  I loved my mother dearly and I always thought she made great meatloaf until I ate Mr. Henderson’s meatloaf.  The sweet coating baked onto the top was what kept me coming back for more.  I even asked Mr. H if he could drizzle a little of that over my slice next time.  (Yes, I committed to returning someday).

The 7-Up cake had a lemony sugar glaze on top that had been baked into a fine crust.  This meal was flowered dresses – church picnic – stepping back in time – good. 

The cheery orange and green dining room is spacious, so if you decide to eat in, you can social- distance with ease.  There are some restaurants that specialize in Southern food with a modern twist, like The Glass Onion in Charleston (read about that establishment here).  With Eat It All, there is no twist.  There is tradition.  There is heart, and there is a love of feeding people to show friendship.  It will take me two days, but I will eat it all.